Haider Ackermann’s debut as Creative Director of Tom Ford was a defining moment in modern fashion. Renowned for his mastery of tailoring and poetic design sensibility, Ackermann stepped into one of the industry’s most iconic roles with a vision that honored the past while embracing the future. Instead of merely revisiting Tom Ford’s most celebrated moments, he chose to reinterpret the brand’s DNA with an understated, elegant touch. His first collection was a lesson in refined sensuality—paying tribute to Ford’s legacy without resorting to nostalgia.
The setting of the show was an intentional nod to Ford’s legendary presentations of the 1990s and early 2000s. The atmosphere exuded sophistication: dim lighting, smoked mirrors, and plush 1970s-style banquettes draped in dove grey silk. It evoked the glamour of Ford’s golden years but through a more contemplative, modern lens. Ackermann wasn’t interested in recreating the past—he sought to distill Ford’s signature sensuality and luxury into a contemporary expression, one that speaks to an audience now drawn to quiet confidence over overt extravagance.
For years, Tom Ford’s womenswear was synonymous with high-voltage glamour, but it never quite captured the seismic cultural impact of Ford’s era at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent. Following the brand’s acquisition by Estée Lauder in 2022, the question loomed: What would Tom Ford’s next chapter look like? Ackermann answered with an approach that was both sophisticated and fresh. He preserved Ford’s essence—sensuality, confidence, and opulence—while infusing it with his own signature grace and precision. His challenge wasn’t just to continue the brand’s legacy but to redefine it for a new generation that favors sophistication over excess.
From the opening look, it was evident that this was a new Tom Ford. The collection opened with exquisitely tailored leather outerwear and separates for both men and women. Unlike the provocative, dominatrix-inspired styles that Ford was known for, these pieces had a softer, more effortless feel. The leather outerwear, especially in a warm cognac brown, struck the perfect balance between 1970s nostalgia and contemporary luxury. The men’s trousers, notably fluid in their movement, presented a fresh alternative to the rigid, hyper-masculine tailoring of Ford’s past collections.
Eveningwear—always a cornerstone of the Tom Ford brand—was reimagined with a modern touch. In the 90s, Ford redefined red carpet fashion with sleek, body-conscious gowns featuring plunging necklines and daring cutaways. Ackermann revisited these themes but softened their impact, replacing figure-hugging silhouettes with flowing drapery and sculptural tailoring. A standout one-shouldered gown in shimmering aqua skimmed the body rather than clinging to it, evoking movement and grace. A pale yellow dress, ruched and slit at the thigh, suggested seduction without the overt provocation of Ford’s infamous ad campaigns. These choices signaled a shift from Ford’s boundary-pushing sensuality to a more refined, effortless allure.
One of the most striking elements of the collection was its approach to tailoring. While Ford’s suiting was known for its razor-sharp lines, power shoulders, and commanding presence, Ackermann introduced a softer, more fluid silhouette. Jackets draped effortlessly, exuding quiet luxury that felt especially relevant in today’s fashion landscape. As casualwear and athleisure continue to dominate, formal dressing has become less rigid, and Ackermann’s interpretation of suiting reinforced that shift. His suits projected confidence without complication—allowing expert craftsmanship, fabric, and posture to do the talking. This evolution of Tom Ford’s tailoring ethos felt both timely and timeless, offering a natural progression rather than a stark departure.
Perhaps the most defining aspect of Ackermann’s debut was its restraint. Tom Ford’s legacy is built on bold statements—daring silhouettes, provocative campaigns, and an unapologetic embrace of excess. Ackermann, however, approached luxury with a more introspective touch. He recognized that today’s consumers desire a different kind of elegance—one rooted in refinement, subtlety, and confidence rather than ostentation. His collection was a study in control and precision, proving that sophistication speaks volumes even in whispers.
That is not to say the collection lacked glamour—far from it. Every detail, from the shimmering metallics to the fluid drape of silk and the richness of leather, carried the essence of Ford’s aesthetic. Yet, Ackermann handled these elements with a delicate balance, ensuring that each piece exuded presence rather than loudness. This was glamour for those who understand that true luxury is not about being the most visible in the room, but about exuding an unmistakable aura of elegance and ease.
Stepping into the world of Tom Ford, Haider Ackermann could have easily been weighed down by the magnitude of history. Instead, he approached his role with quiet confidence, crafting a vision that both honors the past and paves the way for the future. His debut proved that Tom Ford’s legacy isn’t just about what it once was—it’s about what it has the potential to become. Under his creative direction, the brand’s future looks more sophisticated, more modern, and above all, undeniably Tom Ford.
