Chanel closed out Paris Women’s Fashion Week with a striking Fall-Winter collection that played with proportions and layering—without the influence of incoming artistic director Matthieu Blazy.
Set in the iconic Grand Palais, the show featured a stunning, oversized black ribbon spiraling up to the glass ceiling, adding a sense of grandeur to the presentation. The collection itself was a masterclass in contrast and transformation. A black tweed jacket with jewel buttons effortlessly shifted into a long coat-dress, while an oversized poplin shirt cascaded to ankle length. A soft pink tailored short set was given an ethereal touch with a sheer jacket and a matching long transparent skirt.
Accessories made a bold statement, with handbags resembling oversized pearl necklaces, massive rings, and dramatic clutches. Miniature bags added a playful counterpoint to the exaggerated proportions.
Blazy, a highly respected yet discreet designer, was appointed Chanel’s artistic director in December, six months after the abrupt exit of Virginie Viard. His much-anticipated debut collection will be unveiled at the Spring-Summer 2026 Fashion Week in September, where front-row seats are expected to be in high demand.
The star-studded audience on Tuesday included fashion icon Anna Wintour, supermodel Naomi Campbell, South African singer Tyla, and French actors Anna Mouglalis and Carole Bouquet. The week’s grand finale will feature Anthony Vaccarello’s Saint Laurent show, following a presentation by Miu Miu.
A Season of Change
This Fashion Week has seen an influx of fresh creative talent. Sarah Burton impressed with her debut at Givenchy, drawing from the brand’s rich heritage. Belgian designer Julian Klausner helmed his first Dries Van Noten show, while Haider Ackermann’s debut for Tom Ford marked the American label’s inaugural Paris showcase.
Other houses, including Dior menswear, Bottega Veneta, Celine, Martin Margiela, and Gucci, are either settling in with new designers or searching for fresh creative vision. Speculation is mounting around Dior womenswear, with whispers that Maria Grazia Chiuri may have shown her final collection for the house. Some insiders suggest she could be making a move to Gucci.
Recent industry shake-ups—such as Sabato De Sarno’s departure from Gucci and Kim Jones leaving Dior Homme—have only fueled further speculation. Rumors are swirling that LVMH may consolidate Dior’s men’s and women’s collections under Jonathan Anderson, who currently leads Loewe. His absence from recent men’s Fashion Weeks in Milan, Paris, and London has only added weight to this theory.
Meanwhile, British designer Mark Thomas has taken the reins at Carven, following Louise Trotter’s move to Bottega Veneta. More announcements are expected, with both Celine and Fendi still in need of artistic directors. And as for John Galliano—who exited Maison Margiela in December after a decade—fashion insiders eagerly await his next move.
